Wild King Salmon

Know this

True wild king, also called Chinook, runs in early summer and it will cost you, deep orange-red, firm, and rich with fat marbling through the flesh. Farmed salmon is paler and softer by comparison. The chef secret: press it and it should spring right back, and it should smell like clean cold ocean, never fishy. If a fillet is weeping liquid in the case, walk away.

Cook

Pat it bone dry, then lay it skin-side down in a hot, oiled pan and leave it alone. Let it cook three-quarters of the way up the side until the flesh turns opaque, then flip for just a minute. Pull it at medium, the carryover heat finishes it on the plate. King is lean and unforgiving, so a minute too long is the difference between silk and sawdust.

Season

Late spring into summer, when the Copper River run opens.

Best pairings

lemon · dill · capers · brown butter · cucumber · creme fraiche

Also worth trying: fennel, chili, honey, soy, ginger, chives, new potatoes, asparagus, white wine, horseradish, miso, scallion.

Recommended wine