Soft-Shell Crab

Know this

A blue crab caught in the few days after it molts, before the new shell hardens. That short window is the whole trick, and it is why you eat the entire thing, legs, shell, and all, crunch included.

Cook

Clean it (snip the face, lift the apron, pull the gills), dredge in seasoned flour, and fry until crisp and golden. Wonderful piled on a soft roll.

Season

Late spring through summer, when blue crabs are actively molting.

Best pairings

lemon · remoulade · Old Bay · aioli · arugula · brown butter

Also worth trying: capers, tartar sauce, hot sauce, garlic, cornmeal, soft roll, parsley, coleslaw, chili, malt vinegar.

Recommended wine