Know this
Buy them firm and bright green, with taut skin. The wrinkles are natural. Softness and a leathery feel are not. And that one hot pepper in the batch isn't bad luck, it's growing conditions. More sun, less water, and a longer stay on the plant all push a pepper to build capsaicin, which is why a late season basket bites harder than an early one. Chef secret: oil the pan, never the peppers. Oiled peppers steam and go limp instead of blistering, and the char is the entire point of the dish.
Cook
Cast iron screaming hot, single layer, three to four minutes until they blister and slump, then flaky salt off the heat.
Season
Peak July through September.
Best pairings
flaky sea salt · lemon · bonito flakes · sesame · soy · garlic
Also worth trying: miso, yuzu kosho, ponzu, togarashi, lime, scallion, fried egg, grilled steak, ginger, Japanese-style mayo, good olive oil, cracked black pepper.
Recommended wine
Albariño ($15 to $25). Crisp and saline, stands up to char and flaky salt without fighting the pepper. Backups: dry Txakoli, Grüner Veltliner.
See the full pairing guide