Salsify

Know this

Cooked salsify carries a faint briny sweetness that genuinely does suggest oyster, which is where the old name comes from. The catch is that it browns faster than an apple. Chef secret: peel it under running water and drop each piece straight into water with lemon juice, or you will serve something the colour of a paper bag.

Cook

Simmer in acidulated water until tender, then finish in butter. Worth the peeling, but only just, so buy what you need and no more.

Season

November through March.

Best pairings

Brown butter · Parsley · Lemon · Cream · Nutmeg · Gruyere

Also worth trying: chicken, scallop, bacon, leek, thyme, mushroom, chervil, mustard.

Recommended wine