Persimmon

Know this

Two persimmons look alike and behave nothing alike. Fuyu is squat and flat-bottomed and you eat it crisp, like an apple. Hachiya is pointed, and it has to be jelly-soft, almost collapsing, or the tannins will dry your mouth out for twenty minutes. Chef secret: if it has a point on it, wait. A Hachiya that still feels firm is not underripe, it is inedible, and no amount of sugar fixes it.

Cook

Fuyu raw, sliced thin, skin on. Hachiya only once the flesh slumps, then scoop it out and use it as pulp.

Season

October into December. Best after the first frost.

Best pairings

Prosciutto · Burrata · Pomegranate · Walnut · Chicory · Honey

Also worth trying: fennel, ricotta, brown butter, cinnamon, star anise, goat cheese, pistachio, bitter greens, duck.

Recommended wine