Parsnips

Know this

A parsnip left in cold ground converts its starch to sugar as a natural antifreeze, which is why growers deliberately leave the crop in until after several hard frosts. A parsnip pulled in September and one pulled in December are not the same vegetable. Chef secret: the big ones develop a woody core, and it is worth the thirty seconds it takes to cut it out.

Cook

Roast at 425F in even batons. Anything gentler gives you a soft sweet vegetable with none of the caramelised edges that are the entire point.

Season

November through March.

Best pairings

Brown butter · Maple · Curry · Thyme · Apple · Parmesan

Also worth trying: carrot, cream, honey, sage, pork, cumin, hazelnut, horseradish.

Recommended wine