Morel

Know this

Morels fruit heavily in ground that burned the year before, so the biggest hauls follow wildfires and crews chase burn scars north across the west every spring. Nobody fully understands why. They are hollow all the way through, and that is the identification that actually matters: cut one lengthwise and it should be a single continuous empty chamber from cap to stem base. A false morel is cottony or chambered inside and it will make you sick. Chef secret: never eat one raw. Morels carry a compound that cooks off but is genuinely toxic uncooked, and even properly cooked they disagree with some people, so keep a first serving small.

Cook

Halve, rinse quickly to flush the pits, dry them well, then saute in more butter than feels reasonable until the edges crisp. Cooked all the way through, always.

Season

April into early June, moving north as the ground warms.

Best pairings

butter · cream · shallot · thyme · sherry · asparagus

Also worth trying: ramp, chicken, parsley, garlic, madeira, peas, leek, veal, tarragon, new potato.

Recommended wine