Maitake

Know this

Maitake fruits from the base of old oaks, and a tree that produces one will produce another in the same spot season after season. Foragers keep their trees secret and hand them down like property. The name means dancing mushroom. It grows in overlapping fronds like a ruffled hen sitting on the forest floor, which is where hen of the woods comes from, and it is one of the few genuinely wild-tasting mushrooms that is now farmed well, so a good one is within reach at a normal grocery store. Buy a firm, heavy cluster with dry grey-brown fronds and no sliminess at the base. Chef secret: do not slice it. Tear the cluster into hand-sized pieces so every ragged edge catches the heat and goes crisp.

Cook

Roast at 425°F on a preheated sheet pan, torn side down, until the edges are dark and shatter. Or sear hard in a dry pan and finish with soy and butter.

Season

September through November.

Best pairings

soy · butter · garlic · miso · sesame · scallion

Also worth trying: thyme, sake, ginger, black pepper, dashi, lemon, rice vinegar, chili, duck, noodles.

Recommended wine