Know this
Leeks are hilled with soil as they grow to keep the shank white, and the dirt works its way down between the layers. Rinsing the outside does nothing. Chef secret: split the leek lengthwise and fan the layers open under running water, and you will see exactly what you almost ate. The dark green tops are not garbage either, they are the best part of a stock.
Cook
Sweat them in butter over low heat and do not let them colour. Browning a leek turns something delicate into something ordinary.
Season
September through April. Better after frost.
Best pairings
Potato · Cream · Thyme · Gruyere · Mustard · Bacon
Also worth trying: scallop, chicken, white wine, tarragon, egg, mussel, butter, chive.
Recommended wine
Muscadet or unoaked Chardonnay, $15 to $26
See the full pairing guide