Horseradish

Know this

An intact horseradish root has almost no heat at all. Cutting or grating ruptures the cells and triggers an enzyme reaction that builds the burn over about three minutes. Vinegar stops that reaction cold. Chef secret: the moment you add the vinegar decides the strength. Early vinegar gives you mild, late vinegar gives you something that will clear a room.

Cook

Grate it raw, and grate it last. Heat destroys the compound entirely, which is why cooked horseradish tastes like nothing at all.

Season

Dug in autumn and spring. Stores for months.

Best pairings

Beef · Beet · Smoked fish · Apple · Sour cream · Dill

Also worth trying: oyster, potato, mustard, chive, pork, rye, cucumber, brisket.

Recommended wine