Enoki

Know this

Those long white threads are a farming decision, not a species trait. Commercial enoki are raised in bottles in darkness with carbon dioxide pumped in, which makes them stretch tall and stay pale. The wild version of the same mushroom is short, tan, sticky-capped, and fruits on dead trees in the middle of winter, which is why the Japanese name means winter mushroom. Buy them firm and dry, with the caps still tight and closed, and pass on any bag with slime or brown streaks at the base. Chef secret: cut a full inch off the clumped root end and throw it away. That is where the growing medium and the grit live, and it is the part most people leave on.

Cook

Thirty seconds, that is all. Into a hot pan, a hot broth, or a hot pot at the very end. Cook them longer and they turn to rubber bands.

Season

Cultivated all year. The wild ones are a winter find.

Best pairings

soy · dashi · scallion · sesame · butter · garlic

Also worth trying: miso, chili, rice vinegar, ponzu, bacon, black pepper, pork belly, napa cabbage, tofu, ramen.

Recommended wine