Duck Breast

Know this

Duck is red meat wearing poultry's clothes: rosy, rich, and best served pink. The whole game is that thick cap of fat under the skin. Chef secret: score the skin in a crosshatch and lay the breast in a cold, dry pan, then bring the heat up slowly so the fat renders out and the skin turns to glass. Rush it and the fat stays flabby.

Cook

Render skin-side down, low and patient, until the skin is deep gold and crisp. Flip for a minute or two to medium-rare, about 130–135°F, then rest 5 minutes before slicing so the juices settle instead of running out.

Season

Fall and winter, though it's good year-round.

Best pairings

cherry · orange · fig · thyme · red wine · star anise

Also worth trying: purple potatoes, honey, hoisin, plum, five-spice, wild mushrooms, balsamic, sage, ginger, scallion.

Recommended wine