Crayfish

Know this

Tiny freshwater cousins of the lobster, sweet and delicate in the tail. The chef secret most people miss: the real flavor is not in the meat, it is in the heads and the shells. That is why a proper boil tastes of everything at once. Suck the heads, thank me later.

Cook

Drop them live into heavily seasoned water and pull them the second the tails curl. One minute too long and you have traded silk for rubber.

Season

Spring into early summer.

Best pairings

corn on the cob · new potatoes · andouille · lemon · cayenne butter · garlic

Also worth trying: bay leaf, Old Bay, scallion, crusty bread, cold beer, remoulade, celery, smoked paprika, hot sauce, melted butter, parsley, white rice.

Recommended wine