Cranberry

Know this

Cranberries have four small air pockets inside, which is why they float and why the bogs get flooded at harvest. That same air makes a firm berry bounce, and commercial graders literally bounce them down a series of steps to sort the good from the soft. Chef secret: do it at home. Tip the bag out on the counter and the ones that thud are the ones to throw.

Cook

They pop at around 190F and thicken on their own, no pectin needed. Pull the pan the moment most have burst, it keeps setting as it cools.

Season

Late September through December. Bagged fresh ones freeze all year.

Best pairings

Orange zest · Duck · Pork loin · Rosemary · Maple · Pecan

Also worth trying: apple, ginger, port, walnut, sage, brie, dark chocolate, shallot.

Recommended wine