Black Sea Bass

Know this

Look for translucent white flesh, tight skin, and a clean ocean smell. U.S. black sea bass is wild-caught, with tender but firm meat that stays mild and clean. Chef secret: dry the fillet uncovered in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, then press it gently for the first 20 seconds in the pan so every inch of skin makes contact.

Cook

Score the skin lightly, start skin-side down in a hot, lightly oiled pan, and leave it alone until nearly cooked through. Flip briefly to finish; pull it around 130°F and let carryover do the rest. The FDA guideline is 145°F.

Season

Inshore from spring through early fall, with a strong Mid-Atlantic summer run.

Best pairings

lemon · fennel · tomato · capers · parsley · olive oil

Also worth trying: garlic, white beans, clams, saffron, basil, zucchini, brown butter, thyme.

Recommended wine