Black Cod

Know this

The real name is sablefish, and it is not related to cod at all. What it is is fat: more oil than salmon, sitting in deep cold water off Alaska, which is exactly why it forgives everything. Every lesson you have ever learned about not overcooking fish comes from lean fish. This is the opposite problem. Leave it a minute long and it is still silky. Buy thick center-cut fillets with the skin on and white, glossy flesh. Chef secret: marinate it. Miso, mirin, sake and sugar, two to three days in the fridge. The sugar in the miso is what lacquers the top under high heat, and the two days are not optional, that is the whole technique.

Cook

Broil it close to the element until the top blisters and goes dark in patches. Eight to ten minutes. The near-black spots are the point, not a mistake.

Season

Fall and winter, from a well-managed Alaskan fishery that has been carefully run for decades.

Best pairings

miso · mirin · sake · ginger · scallion · soy

Also worth trying: rice, sesame, yuzu, daikon, shiso, pickled ginger, dashi, sansho, cucumber, mustard greens.

Recommended wine