Bay Scallops

Know this

These are not small sea scallops. Different animal, and the good ones come out of eelgrass beds around Nantucket and Peconic Bay, hand harvested off small boats by people who have been doing it for decades. The season opens the first of November and the best of it is over almost immediately. They are sweet enough to eat raw, which is the fastest way to understand why anyone puts up with the price. That eelgrass matters: where the grass went, the fishery went with it, which is why this is now a small, local, seasonal thing instead of something you can buy in July.

Cook

Sixty to ninety seconds in a hot pan, total, and that is generous. Or do not cook them at all. Raw, with good olive oil, lemon and flaky salt, is the honest version.

Season

November, and the first few weeks are the ones.

Best pairings

butter · lemon · olive oil · chive · shallot · brown butter

Also worth trying: sherry, parsley, pancetta, orange, tarragon, white wine, breadcrumb, corn, leek, chili.

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