Standing Rib Roast

Know this

Count the bones, not the pounds. One rib feeds two people, so a four-bone roast is dinner for eight and a seven-bone is the whole rib section. Ask for the loin end, ribs ten through twelve, which is one clean eye of meat with less fat running through it; the chuck end has more marbling and more separate muscles, which some people prefer. The grade you want is Prime or upper Choice, and the fat cap should be creamy white and at least a finger thick. Chef secret: have the butcher cut the bones off and tie them back on. You get the flavor and the rack to roast on, and carving is one cut of string instead of a surgery.

Cook

Salt it hard the day before and leave it uncovered in the fridge. Roast low, around 250°F, until the center reads 120°F, rest it half an hour, then blast it at 500°F for ten minutes for the crust. It will climb another five to ten degrees while it rests, so pull early. Never cook it to a time.

Season

Sold year-round, but it is a December animal. Order it a week ahead or you are taking what is left in the case.

Best pairings

Horseradish · Thyme · Rosemary · Garlic · Black pepper · Shallot

Also worth trying: red wine, mushroom, Yorkshire pudding, mustard, watercress, bone marrow.

Recommended wine