Rack Of Lamb

Know this

A rack is eight ribs from the loin, and frenched means the bones have been scraped clean so the chops stand up on the plate. Domestic lamb, mostly Colorado, is bigger and milder; Australian and New Zealand racks are smaller and taste more like lamb, which is either the point or the problem depending on your table. Look for pale pink to rosy meat, firm white fat, and a cap you can trim yourself to about a quarter inch. Chef secret: score the fat in a tight crosshatch and start the rack fat side down in a cold pan. The fat renders instead of smoking, and the crust builds while the inside stays pink.

Cook

Sear the fat side, then roast at 400°F until the thickest part reads 125°F, about fifteen minutes. Rest it ten and it lands at medium rare. Cut between the bones, two chops per person, and do not let anyone take it past pink.

Season

Year-round for domestic lamb. It belongs to Christmas and Easter, and the butcher knows it, so order ahead.

Best pairings

Rosemary · Garlic · Mustard · Anchovy · Mint · Pomegranate

Also worth trying: cumin, harissa, white beans, yogurt, lemon, olives.

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