Lobster

Know this

Squeeze the side of the shell. Hard means filled out, soft means it molted recently and you are paying for seawater. A new-shell lobster has grown a roomy shell it has not filled yet, so it holds more liquid and noticeably less meat per pound, which is exactly why it is cheaper in summer. Hard-shell lobsters carry more meat, ship better and run from late fall through spring. Buy them alive and lively. Chef secret: lift it and watch the tail. A good one curls hard under itself, a tired one hangs.

Cook

Steam rather than boil, around 8 minutes for the first pound and 3 for each pound after. Pull the tail at 135°F and give the claws a few minutes longer than the tail. Claws and knuckles are denser and finish behind the tail, so separate them and put them in first if you want both perfect. The FDA guideline is 145°F, which is past the point where the tail turns from dense to rubbery.

Season

Hard-shell runs late fall through spring, which is the opposite of when most people buy it.

Best pairings

butter · lemon · tarragon · shallot · corn · sherry

Also worth trying: chervil, chive, fennel, brandy, cream, new potato, bay, parsley.

Recommended wine